Back in April/May, my mother came to visit me in Japan. During our trip down to Osaka, we took a ‘little’ detour into the nearby Wakayama-ken. Our destination: Koyasan (高野山). Founded in 819 by the monk Kukai (AKA Kobo Daishi), Koyasan is the world headquarters of the Koyasan Shingon sect of Buddhism. Home to approximately 120 temples, Koyasan is definitely a place where monks outnumber lay-people.
My mother is fascinated with monks and Japanese Buddhism, so Koyasan was a definite MUST during her trip. For her, I think both fall clearly into the ‘Oriental Mystique’ category. Personally, my image of monks is based almost entirely on my knowledge of the Heian period of Japanese history. Specifically, when I think ‘monk’ I think of two things – the Heike Monogatari and The Teeth and Claws of the Buddha by Mikael Adolphson. The Heian period ended in 1185 and ‘sohei’ (warrior monks) have pretty much been extinct since Nobunaga set fire to Enryaku-ji back in 1571, so it’s safe to say that my knowledge of monks is a bit outdated. What can I say, I love living in the past.
Despite our combined ignorance, we were both interested in doing a ‘temple stay’ – where you stay in one of the local Buddhism temples and can enjoy some shojin ryori or ‘devotion food.’ (It’s all vegetarian, of course.) Little did we know that our trip to Koyasan would coincide with one of their most important ceremonies – the Kenchien Kanjo.
After we settled into our room at the Sekisho-in, some friendly monks ushered us out the door and ordered us to immediately head to the Garan. We followed a mass of Buddhist pilgrims clad in white and weilding votive candles down a gravel path illuminated by lanterns. The tree-lined path opened up to reveal an impressive orange-and-white pagoda. While monks bustled back and forth, the spring air was filled with chanting.
Further up the path lay the Kondo, a massive wooden structure that was originally built by Kobo Daishi in 819 (it has subsequently been rebuilt 7 times, probably due to fires).
The Kechien Kanjo is a Buddhist ritual where the blindfolded participant throws a flower into the Taizokai (Womb of the World Mandala) to establish a link between the participant and one of the emanation forms of Dainichi Nyorai. Afterward, water is used to wash away all worldly desires. On the first day, a procession of monks in colorful brocade robes called the Teigi Dai-Mandala0ku is held.
Day One in Koyasan –
Day Two:
How to Get There:
From Osaka’s NAMBA STATION take the NANKAI KOYA LINE to GOKURAKUBASHI STATION. From there, board the cable car for a brief ride to KOYASAN STATION at the top of the mountain. From Koyasan station, take the bus (there’s only one) to the town center.
Nankai Railways actually offers a KOYASAN WORLD HERITAGE ticket. This pass includes a round trip ticket to Koyasan from Namba Station, unlimited travel on the buses in Koyasan, and discount admission to certain attractions in Koyasan. The pass is valid for two consecutive days. The Regular version will cost you 2,780 per person and the Limited Express version is 3,310 per person.
Tags: constantine in tokyo, constantineintokyo, Japan, Japanese, Japanese culture, Japanese history, Travel
Hugo
Hello! I like your post especially because I live in Wakayama and Koya-san is our proud and joy here.
I write a website on Japanese Buddhism and I’d like to make a page specifically on Koyan-san. Could I use your post as a “testimonial” of the place? I would link to this website as a source, of course.
constantineintokyo
Of course! You’re more than welcome to use this post on your website. I’m glad you liked it!
amannin
Constantine,
Are you always this outwardly nerdy, or only in front of the camera? And using the slow pan across the small statues with your head replacing one of the missing ones…priceless 😀
On a side note, how often would you say you get drunken oyajis coming up to you?
On another side note, what did your mom think of the whole experience?
Glad you finally posted something. Keep them coming.
constantineintokyo
amannin,
Oh no, I am always that outwardly nerdy. Trust me, it’s not a positive thing…it’s the sort of thing that makes people slowly back away and scan for potential exit routes.
I get hit on fairly regularly by drunken oyajis. In fact, the ONLY men who hit on me in Japan are drunken oyajis. I live a depressing life. I have an oyaji stalker where I live actually. It’s a little unsettling. Again, I live a depressing life.
My mom liked it a lot. It was definitely a bit culture shock for her and towards the end of the trip she was getting a little overwhelmed, but we had a great time.
I will be posting more things soon. I’ve been out of the country for a while. =)
claytonian
You have a sexy brain, lady.
constantineintokyo
And you have sexy eyebrows, sir. Thank god we’ll never meet in person, the combined power of our sexiness would likely rip a hole in the time-space continuum.
amannin
Just you two commenting on the same page has already caused an invariable ripple effect — best be careful…
Constantine, don’t you have anyone to protect you from the drunken oyaji swarms? Maybe do the old “pretend someone is calling you and only you can hear it” trick? Or, perhaps a pair of those shoes with wheels on the bottom so you can Gumby slide to safety?
constantineintokyo
Dude, those wheel shoes would kill me. Seriously, I have bad balance.
Rimpa
Gee wirklleis, that’s such a great post!
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